How to choose the best wave kite for kitesurfing [2024]

For many kitesurfers, riding waves with a kite is the ultimate experience. However, this requires solid flying and board skills, as well as a dedicated kite. Not all kitesurfing kites are suitable for wave riding, as true wave kites are specifically designed for surfing waves. When choosing the best wave kite, look for one that is lightweight, fast-turning, and easy to depower. It should remain stable and responsive when depowered, have good drift, and be easy to relaunch. The kite should also be strong enough to withstand waves when crashed. It should have a low aspect ratio, yet still offer reasonable upwind performance.

Riding waves is a distinct experience compared to freeriding or freestyle kitesurfing. It typically involves some or all of the following:

• Riding down the line by utilizing the power of the wave instead of the wind
• Carving tight, successive turns up and down the wave, combining both wave and wind power
• Riding back upwind to return to the wave take-off zone

In contrast, freeriding involves riding upwind most of the time, while freestyle is about performing jumps, tricks, boosting, floating, and looping, then quickly riding back upwind. The objectives of wave kites are distinct from those of other styles. Within the wave riding discipline, there are two different schools:

1. Riders who prefer a fast kite that closely follows their turns and responds immediately to their demands. These kites are ideal for playing with waves (“type 1”).
2. The second style of wave riders like a slow and stable kite that remains stationary without interfering as they surf the wave without kite power until they’re ready to exit the wave (“type 2”).

Whether you prefer a kite of the first or second type depends on your preference and the wind conditions you typically ride in. Most regular surfers (without kites) prefer a “type 2” kite that they can forget about in the wave, while kite power lovers will want to feel the pull at all times. It’s worth noting that the “set and forget” (or “park and ride”) wave riding approach requires optimal wind direction, typically sideshore/side-off, which is about parallel to the wave.

Onshore winds (more common) generally require more kite action when riding a wave. The form and length of the wave also play a role in the type of wave kite you need. Long waves with a consistent wall allow for “down the line” rides with less kite action. In sloppier or mushier waves, however, you’ll need more kite action to power through the weaker sections.

To summarize, the first thing you’ll need to decide is whether you want a slower kite that will stay out of your way as you surf the wave, or a “mosquito” kite that will react and turn on a dime with your every move.

Now that we’ve explored what riding waves involves for both types of wave riding, let’s focus on the qualities to look for in a wave kite for both styles.

A wave kite should have tight pivotal turning, especially when depowered. This is crucial for riding in onshore or side-on winds, where it’s often impossible to simply park the kite and forget about it. In these conditions, I typically take off on the wave, ride straight down, and set up for my bottom turn.

I dig my rail in to turn as tightly as possible and face the wave while sending my kite into the other half-window towards the wave. Maintaining tension in my lines is much easier with a kite that closely follows my turn. A fast-turning “mosquito” kite is essential for carving tight turns in onshore winds, as well as for riders who enjoy flying the kite a lot.

A wave kite should generate significantly less pull in turns compared to a freeride or all-around kite. Excessive pull from the kite while turning can pull you out of the wave or off your board. Your wave kite needs to produce much less power in turns than other types of kites.

Depower is essential for a wave kite, no matter what type of wave riding you engage in (type 1 or 2, see earlier section). The primary reason is that during wave riding, the last thing you want is for the kite to pull you out of the wave due to excessive power.

A good wave kite depowers quickly with minimal bar throw – you want the kite to lose power immediately when you push the bar out while riding a wave.

Your wave kite should also turn well when depowered. So, if your bottom or top turn isn’t as tight as you’d like – depending on your board slashing skills – ideally, your kite should still turn quickly even with less tension in the lines.

In contrast, freeride kites tend to become much less responsive when there is slack in the lines. This is by design, as you want the kite to remain stable when riding upwind or jumping.

Drift refers to a kite’s ability to stay ahead of you as you ride downwind towards it. A kite with good drift will float in place and move gently backward, preventing excessive slack in the lines and maintaining responsiveness.

Drift is crucial for a wave kite because it allows you to ride the wave with minimal traction from the kite and without excessive line slack. With good drift, you can depower the kite and focus solely on surfing the wave. This feature is especially important for “type 2” riding, such as in side-shore winds.

In more offshore winds, you typically perform very tight turns up and down the wave. Due to the wind direction, you’ll need to actively maintain line tension by making small cutbacks on each turn. In such situations, drift is less critical.

Good wave kites are usually lightweight – the lighter the kite, the better the drift. This is why many wave kites are 3-strut kites, unlike the heavier 5+ strut freeride/freestyle kites.

Surf kites tend to sit deeper in the wind window compared to freeride kites, which stay closer to the edge of the window. The best wave kites are well-balanced and won’t fall out easily, even with significant slack in the lines.

Easy relaunch is a vital feature of the best wave kites. When your kite crashes, you need to get it back up and get out of the wave zone as quickly as possible. Getting caught in a big set with your kite down can be a daunting experience. Another essential related quality for your wave kite is fabric strength. Waves are very destructive for a kite, as they can easily rip right through it. You want a solid kite with reinforced canopy and seams to be able to withstand the pressure of smaller waves.

Note: If you crash your kite in waves and have trouble relaunching immediately, you can try to steer your floating kite away from the shore and against the waves to avoid them flushing inside the kite. If you can’t do that, your best bet is to pull the quick release and even set the kite loose to eliminate all resistance to wave impact.

A wave kite should generally have light bar pressure, which usually complements its depower range and drifting ability. Carving fast and tight turns on waves can quickly become exhausting with heavy bar pressure.

I occasionally ride my Cabrinha Switchblade in waves, but my hands often get sore from all the turning due to the high bar pressure. While the Switchblade’s bar pressure is ideal for freestyle riding (read my full experience here), it’s not as well-suited for wave riding.

We’ve covered the essential features that top wave kites should have. Many of these attributes are influenced by the kite’s shape and aspect ratio. Aspect ratio is a crucial factor when selecting a kite. Here’s a summary of how aspect ratio affects a kite’s behavior and performance:

• High aspect kites (longer and thinner, e.g., Ozone Edge) are best for boosting (jumping hard and high), gliding (hang time), building up speed on the board, and riding upwind. They generate more power for a given size, turn slower, are harder to relaunch, don’t drift or ride downwind as well, and provide less depower at the bar.
  
  Low aspect kites(shorter and wider) turn faster, drift and fly downwind better, relaunch more easily, and offer more depower at the bar. However, they don’t go upwind as well, boost less, and have less glide.

The best wave kites are typically low aspect because they need to drift and ride downwind well and turn quickly, especially in wave spots with less-than-ideal side-shore wind and downwind conditions. High aspect kites usually lack the maneuverability needed for onshore conditions.

The tradeoff is that low aspect kites generally don’t perform as well upwind or in boosting compared to high aspect ones. High aspect kites stay closer to the wind window edge, which enhances upwind capability but compromises drift. Good drifting wave kites sit deeper in the window.

For more on the boosting capabilities of high aspect kites, check out this post on choosing a kite for high jumps.

Many wave kites, like the Cabrinha Drifter, have a low aspect ratio, which can result in limited low-end power and difficulty riding back upwind to the take-off zone after riding a wave.

When the wind is above 15 knots, most kites will allow you to reach the start of the wave. However, in very light wind conditions, or if you are a heavier rider, you may struggle to ride upwind with a wave kite and might end up walking.

Among low aspect wave kites, some perform better upwind than others due to a slightly higher aspect ratio or specific design features like squared cutoff tips that enhance upwind capabilities.

Apart from the kite, the type of board you use can significantly affect your upwind performance. For example, riding a Vanguard or a similar board can greatly improve your ability to get back upwind to the take-off zone on a relatively light wind day, compared to a similar-sized standard surfboard.

Using a sliding harness hook, such as the Dynabar sliding hook, can also enhance your upwind capability. Additionally, on days when you can’t consistently ride upwind, it makes walking back with your wave kite much easier.

As with all types of kites, there are endless debates about which wave kites are the best for surfing. Each kite has its own strengths, weaknesses, and ideal conditions for use.

I’m particularly impressed by the Neo’s super-fast turns and responsiveness in waves, along with its low bar pressure, minimal pull in turns, and solid low-end power.

The Neo also offers better upwind capabilities than most other wave kites I’ve tried and is fairly durable, though perhaps not as tough as the Drifter or Slash. It’s noteworthy that kite schools use the Neo, which is uncommon for wave kites. They appreciate its wide wind range, stable power, and crash resistance, making it suitable for learners.

For the record, I primarily use a “type 1” riding style, actively flying the kite and playing in the waves. I usually ride smaller (6-7m) Neo kites in 25+ knot, mostly onshore winds. The Neo’s fast “mosquito” feel is perfect for me.

I’ve also had some excellent side/offshore sessions, experiencing the Neo’s impressive drift and “parking” capability. However, I haven’t yet tested it in perfect down-the-line waves with offshore winds and island-style conditions. I hope to have the opportunity to do so soon.

Wave kites are generally average for non-wave riding activities. As mentioned earlier, features like drift come at the cost of upwind performance, and low pull can limit low-end range.

If you don’t plan to ride waves all the time or enjoy using your twintip, you might prefer a more all-around kite instead of a dedicated drifting surf kite.

Freeride kites vary in their “surfiness.” Some have less boost and better drift, while others, like freestyle/wakestyle kites, focus more on wind range, jumping, and upwind performance (e.g., Cabrinha Switchblade).

Choosing the right kites for your quiver is challenging and depends on various factors, including your style, wind conditions, weight, size, and board. Personally, my combination of Switchblades for power, upwind, and jumping, along with the Neo for waves and all-around freeriding, works very well.

Another versatile kite I’ve tested that performs excellently in waves is the F-One Bandit 5. If I had to choose just one kite for a trip, I’d likely opt for either a Neo or a Bandit for their versatility and ideal drift/power mix.

Choosing the size of a wave kite is a complex decision. It depends not only on the usual factors like wind speed, rider weight, board size, and kite aspect ratio, but also on your specific wave riding style.

Some riders prefer to ride waves “down the line” in light wind using a smaller kite, then exit the water, roll up their kite, and walk back up. Others opt for larger kites (e.g., 12-13m² for a 75kg rider) and adjust their surfing technique accordingly, moving the kite less.

There are essentially no hard and fast rules when it comes to wave kite size, especially given the varying wind ranges between different models. For instance, I’ve had wave sessions on a 9m² Neo while a slightly lighter friend, who works his kite much more, was using a 5 or 6m².

Ultimately, you’ll need to observe and experiment to find what works best for you!